Ariege Pyrenees

We have arrived in heaven.  Absolutely stunning area, of lush green valleys, small farm inlets, warm valleys known as the lower Pyrenees. We are staying near Biert in a dedicated cycling lodge, being fed amazing plentiful healthy meals with produce from their garden.   

Both Mark and Elma work for (dutch) DSM pro cycling team, Elma in charged of feeding the boys, providing meals with total calorie count of output and Mark is a soigneur, assisting the team with massage, shuttle the riders from airports, feeds the riders during races etc etc.  

They are always in Adelaide for the 'Tour down Under' it is so interesting hearing about their roles, the riders, training and particularly the calorie input which has to meet the calorie output of each rider, and they are all different.  So they maintain exact weight set by the coaches, all year round.

Mark and Elma choose our first route to complete in this area, one of their favourites.  And it did not disappoint, difficult in fact to keep riding, one wants to constantly stop to take photo's.  Just gob smacked on how beautiful this area is.  

It's not heavily populated but made up of small inlets, some with just a few house's, barns and a church. Which makes it heaven for cycling, no traffic at all. 

This route included two climbs, Col du Saraille at 942 metres and Col de Latrape at 1110 mtrs. Both climbs on dead quiet roads, narrow enough for one car but we only came across a few workers resealing a small section of road near an inlet. I had to stop for the truck to pass and it happen to be in front of an open door of a small stone home, (they are set right on the road, no path or garden) where an elderly lady was watching holding onto her beaded fly screen curtain, 'Bonjour' I said, she smiled and greeted me in return. 'Heaven' I said and pointed to the glorious view from her front door and she new exactly what I said with a big smile answered, 'Oui Oui'

We see the high Pyrenees in the distance as we descend and came through a small town, just a few houses with this rather large church, in excellent condition with 1752 stamped above its pink entrance doors. Don't know whether it's my imagination but the legs feel good and the climbs easier than 5 weeks ago.  It's warm and sunny and we finish back at the lodge on a high.

Today we choose the Col de la Crouzette route which also includes Col du Port as an add-on.  There is heavy clouds around so have the option to cut it short, should we need too.

This ride takes us up another valley, with less inhabitants than yesterday, so its very quite.  Lush high grass  adorn the road, fewer cows, corridors of birch trees keep us cool on the climbs which are long but manageable. We both feel good. 

Imagine having your lunch at this spot? You'd never get any work done. There is water flowing from almost every corner, a lot of homes have their own little Hydro power stations, with quite fast flowing water flowing under raised up homes, it's amazing.

We come across a stone sign thanking the Spanish Pyrenees Guerrilla's who help French jewish citizens, during WW2 escape across the Pyrenees into Spain, so that they could live.  

I am impressed as I recently finished a wonderful book 'In the shadow of the Pyrenees - The freedom trail to Spain' by Kathryn Gauci. Today the freedom trail is a world renowned walk, through alpine landscapes, high altitude cols, an amazing experience I'd love to do.

We reach the top of the climb and the landscape opens up. before us a wide view of the valley below but the overhanging clouds looks ready to burst.  We take the risk and continue on to complete the Col de Portel, 3.6kms further up the road.

Mission complete we don't hang around, by now it's cold so jackets on and head down. The road sign says 18% down, and this is on a tiny narrow, one car width road that has been used by the Tour de France three times, (obviously they were going up) The road is covered in white paint of past Tour hero's. I can see the screaming fans running beside the climb leader, as we pump the breaks the entire way down.  I find out down the bottom, it's Col de Peguere, 3.6km's in length, with an average of 11.8% and pitches at 18%.  No wonder my fingers were sore at the bottom, as I gave them a flick to get the blood flowing again.  

We laugh at the smily faces on the riders on the sign, there's nothing nice about a climb that tuff.  Because we are cold and we believe rain is not far away, we head back, leaving the optional Col du Port for another day.  Good decision, it's raining lightly as we disembark at our base.