Recovery days in the Vercors

Nine weeks into our trip, we planned a recovery week discovering the amazing Balcony roads of the Vercors.  And we needed it, I was particularly tired after two giant climbs 48 hours apart last week. We have two weeks left and our aim is to climb four remaining Tour de France climbs, on our bucket list.

Col d'Izoard, Col du Galibier, Alp d'Huez and finishing with Col de la Madeleine.

This area was recommended to us and its location ideal, close to Grenoble, gateway to the French Alps. So this week we were simply exploring, seeing the stunning views with shorter relaxing rides. The Vercors National Park is known as the pre-alps, with multiple cliff roads, tiny villages, limestone fortresses, valleys and gorges to explore. 

Day 1, we set off on an overcast day towards the historical and beautiful, Pont-en-Royans, through lush green orchards and quiet country back roads, before too long we are in amongst the large limestone cliffs.

Pont-en-Royans is located at the entrance to Gorges de la Bourne, one of the balcony roads in the area. 

The suspended houses were built in the 16th century, on top of limestone cliffs overlooking the Bourne river, at the entrance to the Gorge. As there was limitations on space, the houses were designed to maximise the available space, accommodating the growing timber trade of the Vercors. 

Day 2 greeted us with brilliant sunshine with clouds up high, promising a warm day of 18 degrees. After a quick explore of our base town of Saint Jean-en-Royan, we headed upwards, riding the Col de la Machine to access our closest balcony road. The town is one of the largest in the area, but lacks colour, like many in France, no lovely colours or hanging pot plants, giving off a rather dreary outlook, unlike Spain. 

After climbing 12.5kms with an average of 6.2%, the road flattens out quickly and we see our first view of the balcony road. Gobsmacked, is a good word to describe what we were seeing. 

We were up very high with strong winds at certain points, but stunning views, natural arches, standing stones, epic drops down to the deep valley below, (not advised if you suffer from vertigo) nice short tunnels, all while on a single vehicle width road.  There was a few cars, not many, cyclists and some motorbikes, everyone was patient, in awe of their surroundings. There were multiple spots where the road accommodated a vehicle to pull in, allowing someone to pass but we stuck to the right, close to the rock wall, as the stone wall barrier on my left, was just above my knees. 

The road was built between 1861 and 1898 by using dynamite to blast away the rock, to form a bed of which the road is built, it originally served the transportation of timber. 

We had planned to do a long route, but down the other side of this road, was totally different weather system, very cold, wet at some points with heavy dark clouds.  With frozen toes and hands, we called it a day and cut the ride short.

Day 3 awoke with heavy dark clouds up high, so we decided to do an easy loop staying low in the valleys.  Of course there is always a climb involved, Col de Tourniol, 18.5km in length but with an easy average of 5% and a maximum of 7%.  It was beautiful, through lush thick forest, no cars', the odd cyclists but we had the entire road to ourselves (almost) today.  It was such a relaxing ride, (which was good, cause I felt like something was coming when I woke this morning)

For the first time in the Vercors, we woke to brilliant blue sky.  We planned to ride up to Villard-de-Lans  Ski resort, accessed by a 24km balcony road through the Gorges-de-Bourne and loop around the mountains via valley roads back to our base.  

Once we got into the Gorge, the scenery changed dramatically, beautiful massif rocks dominated the brilliant blue skies above us. 

Constantly straining the stiff neck to look up, we were surrounded by large limestone massifs.  Like some prehistoric animal with large flat top molars, we rode deeper and deeper into its mouth as the gorge narrowed.  In the valley below the river was raging, the sound of white water rushing a constant, together with the wind funnelling through the narrow gorge. We see man made caves high above us on the cliffs and wonder how and why they were built.  

Opened in 1872 after 11 years of hard labour, this road is the longest balcony road of the Vercors, but alas on this day, we come to a road barrier.  Closed to all traffic until 24th of June.  'I reckon we keep going Ang' Dave says.  'Really, you want to risk a fine?'  We have been told the French road workers hand out 100Euro fines for disobeying road signs.  So we lift our bike over the Red and White gates. 

I feel like a naughty kid.  We ride in silence after turning off our lights 'We don't want to attract attention' Dave says.  The road is stunning, have I said that before?

The road has a slight incline but feels like nothing compared to what we have done before, the birds are singing loudly and we hear rustle of something in the thick undergrowth. We pass one worksite, clipping wire to the side of the massive wall, they take no notice of us.  That's good, I think to myself but not long after we see ahead, another road barrier with two dogs standing guard.  'Oh no, that's not looking good' I say to Dave.  Before he can say anything, they start barking furiously.

We quickly turn around before they draw attention to the guards and make our way back down the valley.

Once we climb back under the first road guard, a car pulls up behind us with the two dogs inside. 

That was close, we dodge a bullet there. A nice easy return to base via quiet country roads, choosing to keep the ride short as Dave is not feeling great today.  We move on tomorrow but have enjoyed our short stay here. Stunning landscape.